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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 30
Submitted By: goingUp on Jul 9, 2017

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Description 

on the far right side of the formation there is a tan/golden face with a left facing crack with a flake at the top. Immediately past this is a horizontal crack followed by a delicate face move past a single bolt to a bolt anchor on black granite.

Getting onto the face at the top is the crux.

It is possible to reach the anchors at the top by scrambling around the back side and making easy 5th class moves onto the summit block from the rear.

Location 

The far right side of the formation. scamper around the last block, and belay from below the slab. the first 20 feet are easy 4th class to get to the base of the crack.

Protection 

.5, .75, 2x#2, 2x#3, a draw for the bolt on the face, and draws for an offset bolt anchor.


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By goingUp
From: over here
Jul 9, 2017

Found this yesterday while getting lost up Granite creek road. The crack was probably 5.9, getting past the horizontal crack and onto the face at the top was more difficult. That crack will take a #.75, 1, or 2, (or you could double up like I did), the move onto the face is tricky but the pro is solid and at your feet before you nail the bolt on the face above.
Bolts for anchor were offset old Metolius hangars that had Tat on em. We cut that off and left a quicklink on the lower of the two and a bail biner on the other.

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