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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 734
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Jun 13, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Tony working on a new route between "Moonshin...

Description 

Begin climbing from the tree, right of "Moonshiner." Easier to traverse in from the left on pockets, than try to battle through the tree to beneath the bulge. Pull the bulge on large pockets to a lower angled area. Continue up the steep face and pull another bulge on pockets to the anchor.

Location 

This route lies between "Moonshiner" and the "Prow" on the northwest face of the Stumbling Block.

Protection 

5 bolts & 2-ring anchor.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Gettin the next draw
Gettin the next draw
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Eyeing the next move

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By Alex Fletcher
From: San Clemente, CA
May 6, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Just did this route on 05/05/2016. going over the bulge closer to the left where the base of the tree starts was what I did. The tree branches weren't in the way on the climb up, but you do rappel directly into them if you're not actively scooting left. It had interesting moves with good high feet. Finding the best holds to use around and above the last bolt to the anchor was the crux for me. Standing on a small ledge allows you to clip a draw in the anchor then rap down with the two bolts with rings on them.
By Jinshui A
Jun 26, 2017

June 26, 17. Rapping down be careful to scoot left towards the base to avoid the the nasty sharp branch broken off (looked very recent) otherwise its a castration .... have your belayer yell out to you as you approach the ground as its a blind spot from your position coming down - you could see the tree and its branches on your way down but not the broken piece sticking UPWARDS. Maybe someone will be kind and handy enough to saw off that broken sharp branch.

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