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Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
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Unknown 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 471
Submitted By: DebColorado McLain on Jul 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Description 

Scramble up to the base of the route, and clip the first bolt, then head straight up the bolt line on some large, solid flakes. Continue to a crux between the 4th and 5th bolt, then look for the hidden 7th bolt. After this bolt, it's about a 25-foot runout on 5.5 terrain to the anchors, but there's a flake on the right that will take some gear if you're not comfortable with the runout.

We belayed from the ground next to a large rock outcropping with a 70m rope (and had plenty of rope left), but your belayer can scramble up to the ledge at the start of the route and belay from there with a 60m rope.

Rap off from the anchors.

Location 

After you reach the crag on the approach trail, go right and locate the two 5.7 routes, Love Canal and Crystal Jug. Then keep walking right (east) along the base of the wall down a short hill and slightly uphill for about 25 yards. You'll end up at the rock outcropping and see the bolts starting on a series of large flakes...plus you can see the anchors, too.

Protection 

7 draws plus a large cam if you want to protect the runout. 2 bolts for anchors at the top.


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By Chris Ilg
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 28, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I climbed this route this weekend. I thought it was pretty straightforward except making the clip for the 5th (?) bolt. There is a very large, roundy protuberance to clip from, but I couldn't figure out how to position my feet to make this a 5.8 move. If you can figure that out, it's 5.8. If you are like me and can't figure out how to use the protuberance more effectively, then this clip is more like a 5.9 move, IMHO. Otherwise, a nice route and a good addition to the area. Thanks!

Does anyone know the name of this route?
By Bill Farrand
Aug 9, 2015

I don't know what the person who wrote the route description meant by bringing a large cam for the last runout. I didn't see anyplace great to place a cam. There was a piton in the middle of that section, so I didn't even find it that bad of a run out. It is kind of a pumpy climb for the grade.
By lukematschek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 29, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Felt harder than 5.8. The run out is nothing to worry about at all.

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