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Unknown 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Mar 26, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A short finger crack leads to a cool stem box protected by #1 Camalots. The crack gets wide for a little bit after the stem box ends and then pinches back down to hands at the top. A little sandy but well worth doing.

Location 

Way around the left side of the Maverick Buttress, about 60' to the right of Quickdraw.

Protection 

Doubles from .5 to #4. One or two extra #1's.


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By Dan Hickstein
Nov 27, 2014

Is this route really only 115 feet? This is what the guidebook says, but we were up there with only a single 70m rope today, and it looked at least 150', so we did not try it. Looks cool though.
By aschmidt
Nov 12, 2015

A 70 m works fine to lower off this route. It was very sandy when I did it so it didn't live up to its 4-star rating. Unless you have huge hands, I'd call it offwidth for most of the upper crack past the chimney/stembox. I used a new 5 camalot and had to do some hand stacking. Several 3s and 4s are useful too.
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Dec 10, 2015

One of my favorites at Maverick. The top is probably a bit tougher for small hands. I would bring at least two current #4 Camalots, maybe a third, 4.5 old style camalot or #4 friend size if you want a cam in the wide crux. the Zig Zag at the top is tons of fun, especially if your not exhausted by then and miss the rest stances to be had. Don't miss this one if you've made the journey to this side of the crag, 70m barely makes it back down.

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