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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 391
Submitted By: nhclimber on Aug 25, 2013

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Todd on the ear


Just right of the first pitch of the horrifying ear is anothet right facing corner. Climb this corner to the top and traverse under the 'horrifying ear' through some loose rock till you are at the base of the con prize hand crack. Climb this and top out con prize or rap.


10' to yhe right of wide first pitch.of the ear.


Standard rack

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Rock Climbing Photo: Horrifying ear and unknown
Horrifying ear and unknown

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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 25, 2013

We had planned on doing the ear, but the first pitch eats up wide cams which we had none. So we started up the wide obvious corner and moved right after the bush. Fun single pitch or awesome with the pitch 2 hand crack.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 29, 2013

Vendetta- Howard peterson '74 ..I'm pretty sure
Jul 31, 2014

From that photo, this is actually the 1st pitch of Stoney's revenge.... one of the most awesome climbs in all of NH. Originally the second pitch climbed the steep slab just right of the chimney (2? bolts) directly, and merged with the Horrifying Ear. That pitch was established by Steve(not Yosemite)Schneider around 78. A year or so later the less direct but more elegantly contrived line was put in by Chris Ellms and Stoney Middleton.

Vendetta is then next fairly large corner to the right. It's identifiable by its arching corner which turns into a long narrow overlap

Also: From the photo of Todd, I noticed where he has crossed the Horrifying Ear and moved left over to conn prize... this was only made possible by the old man rock fall, that spot used to be a solid side of the chimney. The normal/original exit was at the top of the chimney via some thin flakes and up into the thin little slanting corner to Todd's right.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 29, 2016

We went out the thinner, next arch along that goes right..5.9 maybe, nice climbing.

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