REI Community
Karen Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Assembly Line TR 
Center Face TR 
Dream Theme TR 
Dyno-Soar TR 
Hoblet Roof TR 
Karen Rock Traverse 
Karen Crack T 
Lizard Head TR 
Look Again TR 
Nightmare TR 
Sky Hook TR 
Standard Route TR 
Unknown T 
Urchin TR 
Way Hard Rock Climbin' Betty TR 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: Lurker on May 24, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Not sure how this route didn't make it into the book. If it has a name, please let me know. Best gear route at Moonstone in my opinion.

Start right of the Standard Route (5.9), head up face to shallow dihedral/right-trending ramp. Follow ramp to roof, traverse left out roof, finish on Standard Route/Karen Crack.


Nuts/TCU's for bottom, cams to 2" for top. 3-bolt anchor at top of Karen Crack.

Comments on Unknown Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rick Shull
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
May 24, 2013

This route doesn't have a name as far as I've heard. The "shallow dihedral" was once the home of a large fin of rock that fell off a few years ago. The resulting dihedral now allows gear.....
By Floyd Hayes
Jul 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I led it onsight. Uncertain whether I could get gear into the finger crack beneath the roof, I traversed the face below the roof which seemed safer. Fun lead! But watch out for rope drag. Seemed a bit stiff for 5.9, maybe 5.10a?
By Benjamin F
From: Crescent City, CA
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

i've also led this. placed a #2 along the traverse, with a short sling extending it.
i didn't fall on any of the placements, but i'm fairly confident the rock wouldn't have held.
this line can easily be done on top rope with loooooong slings between the anchors for karen crack and assembly line.
the same way to set up for urchin head.
i would strongly advise against leading this.
also, the face to the right of urchin head goes. huge dyno move to the block. felt like 11+
again, id advise against lead falls on gear placed in the traverse shelf or in the dihedral.
By Evan Wisheropp
Mar 25, 2014

This is definitely a fun lead! On par with North Crack.
I started it farther right and went up the right side of the block (right of the dihedral and through the large pocket). If you are careful where you place it, the gear is solid enough, it did hold some pretty big swings my second took. (However,I would still treat it as a no fall situation on lead).
I would agree with Floyd in calling it 10a.
By Nick Black
From: Arcata, CA
Oct 17, 2015

Fun, but scary lead. Don't blow it.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About