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1st Bend Crag
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Roadside Attraction T 

Roadside Attraction 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Glen Schuler, Mark Milligan, and Wayne Smith
Page Views: 319
Submitted By: b hof on Mar 30, 2013

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Description 

Start out by climbing a water polished face past 4 bolts to a crack system, get a good rest, continue up a hand crack to where it starts thinning down to fingers, undercling to a layback section, and fire your way up the crack to a good rest. The crack ends, then face climb past 1 more bolt and to the anchors. The crux is in the bolted line, but if you're new to the crack game, the undercling/layback section might feel harder. I first climbed this 4 years ago and remember there being ball bearings in the crack section, and last spring I got on it again and it had cleaned up nicely.

Location 

If looking up at the crag from the road, this route is to the right of the massive roof on right face of a right-facing corner.

Protection 

Draws, nuts, and single rack of cams from #0.3 to #3 Camalots, doubles in fingers are optional. Caution, a 60m will BARELY get you down, a 70m rope is recommended.


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By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
May 6, 2016

Hey b, glad you liked this thing! I remember being pleasantly surprised how good this route turned out. Long and pumpy in the upper crack section. We never named it, but it really does deserve one - seeing that it is 50' from the road, let's call it Roadside Attraction. One minor correction, the Wayne on the FA team is my good friend Wayne Smith. I have never had the pleasure of putting up a route with Mr. Montoya, maybe someday.

Cheers