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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Edward Medina on Dec 4, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at 'Unknown' route


Start where three cracks descend from a large roof. The rightmost crack looks like the most aesthetic start. Climb to a stance below a large roof. Exit left on good horizontals and wedge yourself into the slot above. Belay from the ledge above the slot. Traverse right to the fixed gear above Red River Wall (a Sean Barb route) and rappell


There is a wide crack in a corner in the alcove to the right of Nevermore (the 5.8 one. This climb starts to the right of that wide corner crack.


Midsize to large cams

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By Matt Westlake
From: Durham, NC
Dec 5, 2012

Hey Eddie, might this be the same thing as the 5.9 in the Kelly guide called "The Corner"? I haven't looked for that one yet but it's in the same general area according to the topo. Btw, thanks for posting up the 8 near juggernaut - it's nice!
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
Dec 6, 2012

Might be. Although it's not really a corner feature. I'll have to take another look next time I'm there. I think there is a wide corner feature in that general vicinity that might be the route you are referencing in the Kelley guide.

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