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The Taco
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Taco Supreme 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Duane Ackerman
Page Views: 621
Submitted By: Jason Young on Jul 1, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at route.

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A great line that starts off with some intricate moves on superb stone with interesting feature. The crux is getting past the third bolt by negotiating a small overlap. Delicate friction and edging while deciphering the unique holds will get you through it. The route lets off for a bit, only to re-engage you for the last thirty feet on pronounced smears. The rock is course textured yet surprisingly solid and non-gritty.


This route starts underneath the giant boulder that leans against "The Taco" and is just to the right of "Taco Time".


Bolts to a two-bolt chain anchor. A small cam could prove helpful past the crux.

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By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jul 2, 2012

Re-reading your description...

Does this start under the chockstone, or, on the side then gaining the outside of the chockstone (facing Comp Wall)?

If its the bolted route outside, this route was probably called "Taco Time" longer than GK's route to the left (which I think Brad called "Taco Left" in his guide for Zone 2).

Originally soloed by Brad, lead by me without bolts, and, rebolted after that. Rated 5.9 for the kinda burly start, then, fairly juggy to the top.

Where is the top anchor? Is there a separate anchor for this now?
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 4, 2012

Brian. This route is on the wall that is the "Taco" proper. It starts on the left side and somewhat underneath the giant boulder that leans against the "Taco". I believe that it is NOT the route called "Taco Time" in the 2008 Bingham guide as it felt quite a bit harder than 5.8. I also met a guy who said that a friend of his recently put it up. I did see a route that was actually on the giant boulder facing the Comp Wall that matches the description you gave, but it is a different route and I did not get on it. The route shown and described as "Taco Time" in the guide matched the one to the left of this UNKNOWN one. I have a picture on my phone that I need to submit, but I think I need to download it to my computer first so it will be a couple of weeks before I can do so.
By Climbingblues
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is Taco Supreme (5.10B). It is a Duane Ackerman route route. I did it 2 years ago when Duane first showed it to me and then did it again last month. It is not listed in Bingham's Castle Rock guide. The start is 5.10B friction moves. It takes 7 or 8 bolts not including the anchor. Dwayne recommends a #1 TCU to protect the small slot below the fourth bolt. I used a #5 Lowe Ball in the crack before starting up to the 5th bolt. If you're a strong 5.10 climber, you should be able to clip bolts and avoid placing gear.

Be careful when lowering as you could hit the boulder leaning against the route.
By Tobiah
Mar 16, 2015

Favorite 5.10 at Castle Rocks! At the start you are in a cave with cool features that eventually constricts enough to stem as if you were climbing a tower route. After you climb up out of the cave/chimney the face above is very fun. This route also makes for great lead photos from above at the anchor as climbers come out of the chimney. Good eye whoever spotted this line; thank you for bolting it.
By dave bingham
Apr 13, 2015

Yes, "Taco Time 5.8" is the furthest left route on the Taco formation. "Taco Supreme 10b" is second from the left, and starts with friction moves and small sidepull/underclings.

The route on the leaning "boulder"has a steep start 5.8/9 and a 5.7ish slab move up high to a chain anchor.

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