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YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Springs and Hanson?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 251
Submitted By: kBobby Hanson on Jun 18, 2012

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This may or may not be a new route in this area. I could not find any info on it. We cleaned a ton of dirt and vegetation out of this crack. There was a bolted line very close to this route, but it seemed to diverge about 1/3 of the way up. In its current state it is probably worth 2 stars, but it will improve with more ascents. The crux is short, and no harder than 5.8. The rest of the route is 5.6, and all of it is well-protected.

Climb a continuous crack just above the left edge of the steep face at the base of the Apron. This crack goes through every size from tips (at the crux) to fists.

There are a few bolts near the crack down low, but the bolted line goes straight up where this route follows a right-trending crack.

Pitch 1: Begin by stepping off the block to the wall. Move past a bolt (no hanger) to the right toward a horizontal crack. Up past more bolts to the main crack. Follow the crack until you run out of rope. (5.8-)

Pitch 2: Wander up the lower angle slabs, around to the left of the blocky face, to a large tree that you can belay off of. (5.5)


Bushwhack from the road toward the steep face at the bottom of the Apron. Scramble up the blocks on the left-hand side toward two large pine trees. Stop at a long block next to the wall about 20 feet down and to the right of the lower of the two large trees. Belay here. Look for a hangerless bolt about 8 feet up, and more bolts on either side of the perfect crack.

Walk off left. Beware of poison ivy. Part way down the gully, there is a path (not quite a trail) that goes over the ridge where you can find the trail back down to the parking area. Continuing down the gully is another option, but it steepens and there is even more poison ivy.


A full rack plus a few bolts. There are no fixed anchors on this route. You can belay off of trees at the top of the second pitch.

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