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YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 448
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 25, 2011

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T wall arete


Climb the initial part of the arête past small gear to stance. Step right to a crack on the face. When the crack ends, do a bit of face climbing, up and left, past spaced gear to the top.


A "found" route located between Contents Under Pressure (wide crack with a chockstone) and True Colors (left facing corner) – It starts at the toe of the arête between those routes.


Mostly small stuff. No anchors, use a tree at the top and rap from Totem Pole.

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By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Dec 25, 2011

The day this route was “done”, we found out our good friend, climber and Tennessee Wall regular, Jerry Dodgen was in the hospital ending a long fight against cancer. He died peacefully the next day. This route is named in his honor.

After consulting guide books and guidebook authors, it appears this route hasn’t been done(?). Also a fair amount of vine pulling, crack cleaning and dead pine tree trundling was done. Just needs a bit more traffic to get rid of some of the lichen.
By Rob Dillon
Dec 26, 2011

Brandon Mack and I climbed this in about 2001 or 2001, and I've done it a couple times since. I remember a kind of sporty move down low, before you get any gear, and then an easy romp to the top where one had to clamber through the dead pine. Jerry always brought great psyche and I'm sorry to hear of his passing. I hope I'm still sixty-one and having fun the way he did- a generous spirit and an inspiration to a lot of folks.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Dec 26, 2011

Rob - thanks for adding and clearing up. Didn't think it was new but couldn't find any details about it. I will change details, etc. if you let me know...

Sixty one and having fun...great route.
By Rob Dillon
Dec 28, 2011

Looks like I put it in here under 'Myth of the Spastics'. Admin!
By Jeff Mekolites
From: ATL GA
Jan 3, 2012

I am adding a picture to help clear things up. I think this may be a variation of 'Myth of the Spactics'. I think the "crux" move of this variation if up high on the clean face out right - versus scampering up high. Either way this would be a nice moderate if more people climbed it to help clean it a bit.
By Rob Dillon
Jan 17, 2012

That's it in the picture. We started on the left side. I remember thinking I could hit the ground there but no such worries on the hard move up high.
By Scott Perkins
Jan 26, 2012

I think that arete is one of those routes that has seen a half dozen "FAs" in the past 25 years. Sounds like Rob did a different start and different finish. We started on the right side of arete and went straight up to top staying just right along the arete (left of dead pine which has been trundled). I believe this upper part is also the finish for Contents Under Pressure.
I like the name 'Myth of the Spactics' course somebody might be posting up shortly saying they did it 1990, and they called is 'Nevermind'. Regardless, its pretty fun climbing.

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