|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jason Halladay on Jul 31, 2011|
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 26, 2011
I swapped out all the hangers and the anchor on this route today with painted/colored hardware since this route is in such a high, non-climber-traffic area and the shiny anchors were easily visible from the highway.
When I tried to remove the hanger on the first bolt, the bolt spun in the hole and had a lot of play in the hole. Since it was in a non-optimal spot anyway (a dished area that made it difficult to clip), I placed a new bolt/hanger to the right. I was able to pry the original wedge bolt/hanger out of the hole without too much effort. Perhaps the hole wasn't cleaned out well before the bolt was placed.
The route also initially had two big, beefy anchor setups, with one four feet above the other. I took down the upper one because it seemed unnecessary.