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"Unnamed 5.11+" in Bloom Guide T 
4 x 4 T 
4x20 T 
Carbondale Short Bus T 
Collision Course T 
Country T 
Crankcase T 
Dashboard Jesus T 
Destination Paris T 
Hookers 'n Blow T 
Hydraulic Pump T 
Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie T 
Knobby Tires T 
Lift Kit T 
Linkage T 
Marshmallow Safari T 
Minute Lube T 
Monster Truck T 
Salt-Lake Special T 
scout T 
Take 10 T,TR 
Take 5 T 
Town T 
Tranny Trouble T 
Unknown 21 - big hands flare T 
Unknown 5.12 Large Lichen Corner T 
Unknown long hands into wide corner T 
Unknown OW T 
Unnamed 5.10 (route 34) - R of tunnel T 
Unnamed 5.10 - Left of Variety Pack T 
Unnamed 5.10- w/ LF corner capped by roof T 
Unnamed 5.11 (36) - RF corner through 2 roofs T 
Unnamed 5.11 (38) - twin crack start T 
Unnamed 5.11 R of Variety Pack T 
Unnamed 5.11 w/ 2 bolt start T 
Variety Pack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown long hands into wide corner 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: Duncan P Ryan on Oct 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: 10+

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

#2 in old Bloom, #5 in new Bloom. This is a long route with variety. It begins in the tight hands crack just outside and to the right of the inside of the dihedral. Climb though good hands with many opportunities to stem left. After good hands it gets wide for brief section and pops you into clean cupped hands in white rock which widen ever so slightly to the top. The color change serves as a nice half-way mark if you're a little pumped. This is a long route and requires more than you can get out of a 70m. Take a couple ropes and a rest in the middle.

(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27 2014):
"This route starts to the right of the main corner up a left angling finger crack with feet. Continue up a hand crack on the left where the corner and starting crack meet, followed by a short section of fingers and offwidth. After the wide crack its pretty much hands to the anchor."

Location 

First line left of Marshmallow Safari. Round the corner and you're below a large, left-facing corner.

Protection 

Many #2s and #3s BD for the top. The initial section will take #1s and .75s. Some will argue you should take several #4s or even a #5. But those people have eyes only for wide cracks and can't see the beauty of protecting deep within those wide sections. Couple of bolts at the top.

(per Steven Lucarelli's submittal, May 27, 2014):
(4).5, (3).75 & #1, (5)#2, (2)#3 & #4 Camalots. A bolt and an angle equalized with cord and webbing make up the anchor. Also a 70m rope just reaches.


Photos of Unknown long hands into wide corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam working up the route. A 70m rope just reaches ...
Sam working up the route. A 70m rope just reaches ...

Comments on Unknown long hands into wide corner Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

duncan,

is this the first or second line to the left of marshmallow safari? for some reason i thought there was a route called lift kit just to the left of MS (steep off fingers, merges into an overhanging hands and bigger corner).

thanks for the addition!
By Duncan P Ryan
Oct 13, 2009

you know, now i look more carefully, bloom says there's about 400 ft between #4 and MS.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 29, 2014

This thing is definitely .5 camalots at the start which gradually widen to baggy .75s or super tight #1's. Then there is another section of .5's followed by a short OW and about 60' of hands to the anchor. The crack doesn't get wider the higher you go it is pretty much a hand crack all the way to the anchor with a few pods. Also a 70m rope does reach the ground from the anchor.
By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Sep 7, 2015

This has a Banditos hanger at the anchor!
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
May 25, 2016

If this is the crack just left of Marshmellow, I'd recommend at least one .4 for the first 20 feet of not trivial climbing.
By slim
Administrator
May 26, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

i think that is a route that used to have a plaque that said "lift kit" (although there was already a route by that name at 4x4). it starts with kind of a funky mantle sort of move into an off fingers splitter over a little roof, and then moves around a minor arete to the left into a steep corner? pretty long? would be pretty hard for 10+ ?
By Noah.J
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 15, 2016

I think this is a duplicate of the route to the left in the MP listing. It's pretty stout for 10+, might could call a few moves 11a, but not sustained at that grade. In any case, this route description is more accurate for the photo I posted, e.g. the beginning takes 0.5's until the crack widens at ~20-30' to 0.75s and then a brief #4 to OW pod before the cruiser 2s and 3s above.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 16, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

there was another entry for this route, so i combined them into duncan's entry. hopefully that clears things up a bit.