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The Mordor Wall
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Type:  Aid, 1 pitch, 150'
Original: A4 [details]
FA: Crazy Dave? c.2000
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: nhclimber on Sep 30, 2009

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Once at the first pitch belay on mines look up and right and you will see a lonely bolt 15' up. Look close and you may see some fixed heads here and there. Off the anchor work up on hooks and heads till you can reach the bolt (scary) from the bolt move up and right on heads and rivets. You will be under the main seam now, rivets and heads an thin nuts through an overhanging wall will get you to the anchors. I think there may be another bolt up high before the free crux. Finish as for mines.


Above the left end of the ledge at the end of the first pitch on Mines.


Standard aid rack, you pretty much only need heads, hooks, rivet hangers, and draws. But thin nuts and cams will help up high.

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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 30, 2009

This route has been free climbed at .13+ (Highway 61), aid at your own will or free climb past heads.
By Ben Maxfield
From: Parsonsfield Maine
Dec 21, 2013

Didn't crazy Dave from Massachusetts start this thing long time ago? Like the early 90's can't remember his deal but I had him belay me on the Bongo Flake first and second pitches around then and can remember him up there placing heads the day before! or did Jay Conway start the project and with amazing effort lead it ? Just wondering

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