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Leaning Tower
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Blinded by the Light S 
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Lichen Attack Crack T 
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Unknown S 
Will of the Wasp S 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lee Sheftel
Page Views: 781
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jul 19, 2009

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Richard Boyle working his way through the middle s...

Description 

This route climbs the arete on the left side of the tower from a high start off of a ledge around the corner. Compared to the other routes it is quite short but the climbing is interesting.

After stick clipping, head up the arete working between it and a seam/crack on the face to the left. Continue up to some better holds under the small roof on the right side of the arete. Powerful moves back to the left side and up into better holds along a right facing flake and the anchors above.

Location 

Climbs the left arete of the leaning tower starting off of a ledge about 20-30 feet up and around the corner.

Protection 

5 bolts, bring a stick clip. Falling before being clipped in would be disastrous and if as mentioned below, some hangers are missing it is going to be a long way to that first bolt.


Photos of Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Boyle slaping his way up the lower bit
Richard Boyle slaping his way up the lower bit

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By William Penner
From: The 505
Jul 23, 2009

Looks pretty cool, almost like a flake/finger crack, but is very short and missing the first two hangers. I put up another mid-range 12 on an arete left of it and the 5.10 crack.

It would be much better looking if it were not next to the beautiful, tall routes on the Tower.
By Jean
Sep 13, 2011

I'm pretty sure this is a Lee Sheftel route.

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