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Psychobabble Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Enemy Within, The S 
Eye in the Sky T,TR 
Eye of the Enemy T 
Psychobabble T 
Psychostematic T 
Rebel Yell S 
Rock Capades T 
Unknown T 

Unknown 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: tenesmus on Nov 7, 2006

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Description 

Start out of the woods and climb the thin crack watching carefully for loose feet. There is a thin hands to fingers crux that would be hand-size dependent but felt 9+ to me. The rest of it is about 8 or 9 with a few crack boulder problems. Watch the loose blocks and have your second bring a hammer and knock some of that stuff off. Kinda of a cool route for where it is and would make a nice warmup for Psychostematic if it were cleaner.

I could probably have belayed from the large tree/bush to the right but opted for the comfort of the Psychobabble belay anchors. This gives you some rope drag though.

Definitely reinforcing the realization that the Psychobabble Wall is one of the crown jewels of BCC.

Location 

This route is actually below the Psychobabble Wall and follows the thin-ish crack system below Rock Capades. It's on the right of the underside of a fin of rock that is most easily seen from the meadow or on the Bumble Bee Wall.

Protection 

TCUs through #1 Camalot, nuts, a few long draws


Comments on Unknown Add Comment
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By sputtering zoso
Dec 5, 2006

We found a pin about 30 feet up, hence the unknown on who first ascended. Solid 5.9. One star.