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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,696
Submitted By: ac on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Rope hanging from the anchor.

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  • Description 

    This is a cool, little trad (?) route at Catslab. It is worth doing, maybe, if you're bored of all those bolt routes. There are various starts to an obvious, clean, left-facing corner with occasional shrubbery ~60' left of Skimbleshanks. Beware of rubble on the ledge below last 10' step. It has pretty clean rock and bomber gear. More cleaning and it'd be a great beginner trad lead?

    Protection 

    Standard rack to #2 Camalot.


    Photos of Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The anchors.
    BETA PHOTO: The anchors.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave higher up, before the ledge.
    Dave higher up, before the ledge.
    Rock Climbing Photo: A good view of the route.
    BETA PHOTO: A good view of the route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Deb just past a vertical start.
    Deb just past a vertical start.

    Comments on Unknown Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jason Kaplan
    From: Glenwood ,Co
    Oct 27, 2005

    I may have got the FA for this one, I did it on aid about a year ago, it looked like it would be a good trad route especially for beginners. The shrubs were pretty bad and I had to clear a bit, but like mentioned before, if cleaned more, it could be a pretty nice route. I was solo at the time and topped out near the start of the 5.8 Skimbleshanks. Have fun. P.S. some bouldering and possible other routes can be found downhill and down river. Peace!
    By ac
    Oct 29, 2005
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    I free soloed this ~5-6 yrs ago and saw chalk on it then. I agree that with a little more cleaning it would make a good beginner lead.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Oct 17, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

    This line continues up ~120' before it joins Skimbleshanks. The upper face is a bit harder, likely 5.8 PG-13/R before you gain the crack. At the horizontal, you traverse right, but test the holds there. Watch out for rope drag!

    Oh yeah, that ledge at ~60' up, it apparently collects rocks at regular intervals, so be careful. We cleared probably 50-60 off it.
    By First Track Jack
    From: Colorado
    Oct 3, 2014

    Decided to check this out today…. Agree, that is is a great beginner trad route, easy gear, easy moves, a little vegetated, and loose rock on top ledges. Descent is to downclimb via Shimbleshanks ascent.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jun 11, 2015
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    This is a good, easy route. It now has bolt anchors for descent before the ledge with rubble. It is a little shorter now that it has these anchors, but descent is now easy. Who put the bolts in?
    By Ben D.
    From: Colorado
    Oct 8, 2016
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    Climbed this last night. Two small areas of shrubbery but otherwise a pretty clean route. Was on the lookout for rubble and loose rock but never came across any. Would make a good beginner trad route as it takes gear really well and has good stances all the way to the top. 24" runners kept a straight line to the anchors.

    Hiking out we noticed three new bolted lines around the corner to the left of this route about 30 feet uphill. They are short and look easy-moderate. Does anyone know anything about these lines?