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Lover's Leap
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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,926
Submitted By: TBD on Sep 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: The bolted 5.9 start from the bottom. The small ro...


This is a great route in my opinion (all pitches).

Start about 20 feet left of the route Lover's Leap. Look for a blocky face with bolts.

P1: Follow the bolts up a steep slab. Turn a crux overhang (9+ or 10a) and continue up to a 2-bolt anchor. Great, 5.9++. You can place a blue Alien just before the crux bulge and a black Alien to protect the final moves to the anchor.

From here, you can traverse right and continue on the route Lover's Leap. Or else continue with the Unknown route if you are comfortable with runout climbing:

P2: Approximately 5 feet right of the belay is a shallow left-facing inside corner with a knifeblade below a bulge about 10 feet up. Ascend the corner to the pin, clip it for fun, and move up another foot or so to a stance and place some pro (possibly "s"). I was able to get a fairly good yellow Alien and a #4 Lowe Ball. Pull the bulge (approx. 5.8) to some easier well protected ground above. Climb to a large sloping ledge. At this ledge there are two terrible bolts and a good slung flake, this is an optional belay. Climb up the ledge to the left to a left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a roof with good holds and a little loose rock, this is with no pro and about 40 foot run out (5.7 vs). Above the roof is some good pro and well protected 5.9 crack/ face climbing. Climb to the end of the crack and traverse right to a 3-bolt belay. Great, 5.9.

P3: You can easily traverse right to the finish of the standard route. Better yet, climb up and left on sparse protection to a large ledge. Above the ledge is a small roof, find a thin vertical seem, place some small gear, and pull up on to the steep face above. Ascend straight up the face past diagonal cracks for gear and a little lichen to the top. Fabulous finish, 5.8+.


The first pitch is bolted (8-9 bolts plus a blue and black Alien); the second and third are trad and runout.

Photos of Unknown Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route clearly showing the start.
BETA PHOTO: The route clearly showing the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux roof on a Top Rope lap.
At the crux roof on a Top Rope lap.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is looking up that .10a mixed-pro protected s...
This is looking up that .10a mixed-pro protected s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Hildenbrand near the top of the first pitch....
Bruce Hildenbrand near the top of the first pitch....
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown 5.9 on the left, Lover Leap on the right. ...
Unknown 5.9 on the left, Lover Leap on the right. ...

Comments on Unknown Add Comment
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By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 30, 2004

On 6/07/04 Ron Olsen and I upgraded the anchor on top of the 1st pitch. We added a hanger to an already existing 3/8" bolt stud and then added quick links and a couple of links of 3/8" chain to the anchor to facilitate a rappel.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA).Visit their website at, they appreciate your support.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 19, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first pitch is excellent face and slab climbing, with a 10a crux overhang. I placed a blue Alien before clipping the bolt at the crux and was glad to have it. I also placed a black Alien near the top of the pitch to protect a hard move to the anchor.

We continued up Lover's Leap from the top of the first pitch.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Apr 10, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We did pitch one only and I thought it was worth the time. Probably falls in the 5.9 range. Regarding the anchor at the top of the pitch, the addition of either chains or webbing with rings wouldn't be a bad idea. When rapping, all the weight is placed on one bolt, which of course could be bad news if that bolt were to fail for whatever reason. Start the standard route with this pitch to increase satisfaction.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
May 19, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

From the P1 anchors to the ground is right at 30 meters. So, with your knots you may come up about 3 meters short if you are being lowered with a 60 meter rope. Be sure your belayer is tied in. I had to untie about 8 feet up and downclimb to the ground.
By Tom Pierce
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 7, 2006

I did this pitch recently and found it well worth the time, a far better start than the normal first pitch of the 5.7 Lover's Leap route, albeit much harder. It's almost a high angle slab, i.e. footwork is key. I'll also echo the comment above about gear; this is a bolt-protected route, not a sport climb, so a couple of micro-cams might be good. Others used Aliens, I used 2 Metolius 00 cams, which seemed to fit well below the roof and again just before topping out. From the belay it's about a 15-20' traverse right (facing the cliff) to the main 5.7 line.
By Tombo
From: Boulder
Nov 13, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought the crux was at least 5.10. Maybe it's a reach problem or I just missed something. Lots of climbing on this pitch.
By dlight
May 16, 2017

An enjoyable outing, we climbed 4 pitches, 350'. The climbing above the bolted first pitch is all trad, maybe 5.8+. Route finding is challenging, and the pro is sometimes not where you want it to be!

I spotted the upside down knifeblade at the start of pitch 2 and decided not to go that way! For a safer option; move up and left from the bolted anchor to find good pro, then bust up and right to rejoin Unknown. We belayed at the ledge with the old bolts, take a long sling for the block.

Pitch 3 - we moved up and right here, some spicy 5.8 slab with RPs and a small cam, then straight up. The Lover's Leap route is about 25' to your right at this point. We belayed on the ledge midway between the cave on LL and the 3 bolt anchor on Unknown.

Pitch 4 - up and left to finish on Unknown, a fine, airy finish.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jun 9, 2017

Attempted this last night.

I would say this is a very serious lead, more like 10c R than 9. I struggled through the crux and above. It seems pretty sustained, and the gear is not amazing, the bolts are far apart. After hanging on an Alien which subsequently pulled, I'm left with a sprained ankle and maybe a broken tibia. Be careful out there!

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