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This is one of the farthest left of the routes located just around the corner and uphill (to the east) of the buttress with Huston Crack
and Aid Crack
at Cob Rock. This route climbs a slabby dihedral then tackles an impressive but easy 5 foot roof and finishes with perfect hands. There is no anchor, unfortunately, so you'll have to do a scary walkoff instead.
This is seldom climbed. Be careful of loose rock at mid-height.
Per Tony B
Edit - a little research back in time with guidebooks has revealed that this climb is indeed Othello, and that the more recent books have simply misplaced the route.
This is a good stemming and jamming route with a small roof for crack climbing practice.
Start off from the ground in slightly junky rock, pull up into the corner on solid but tricky holds (10-, height may help), and get established in the corner. Stem and jam up several meters to get established under the roof, where a few 1" and under TCUs can be placed well with a long sling before battling the roof. Jam overhead and stem up to place a 2.5" cam (a yellow Camalot is OK) over the lip of the roof just above a solid chockstone, then stem and pull up on great hand jams and some incut holds to get established over the roof (crux, 10-). Continue onward to a nice ledge to set a trad belay.
To descend, scramble upward and SE, then down a ramp and south again to the ground... it is hard to explain, and might be best found from the ground first. Eds. This is a combination of two submissions that are ultimately for the same route.
Set of cams, heavy on #2 and #3.
Per Tony B
: 1 rack of cams from 0.5-3" plus a few medium-large nuts + slings. The top is a trad anchor that needs a cordalette or similar to toprope. The descent requires a scramble off that can be tricky to find.
Per Tony B
: this route is up and left of the main face of Cob Rock. Find the Huston Crack
Buttress and go up and left around a corner to find 3 parallel cracks, from right to left, South Crack
(5.8), and Ms. Fanny Le Pump
(11+). These can be recognized by the anchor 10 meters off of the ground on the left two of these three. Around another small corner, up and left, is Othello. This climb starts in a shallow left-facing corner and goes to a small roof at 30' then onward to a large ledge.
Leading the awkward roof section.
By Frances Fierst
From: Juba, South Sudan
Sep 10, 2002
The roof was a bit awkward, but it protects great. The jams are solid (at least for my hands) and there are also bomber hands after you get over the roof. The walk off is not so bad, either.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2007
I thought this route was great- go out overhang and up the splinter crack. located to the left of Ms. Fanny Le Pump. Rack used: cams (BD)- #.5, #1, #2. Climbed to a rap tree up and left (climb through broken section of rock) 1 pitch, w Philo on 6/21/07 ...5.10-
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2014
There are two pitons at the "top" of this climb...about 25' above where the crack ends. I backed them up with two small cams, brought up my second, and then we rapped from there. Currently there is a decent looking red sling with rap biner through the pitons.
This is actually a sweet little climb. Short but worthwhile. The start might be a tad bit dicey if you aren't comfortable at the grade, it protects with small cams/stoppers. After that, you can sew the climb up, and it is easy to protect the roof moves. Save a few mid-sized cams (#1, #2 BD Camalots) for the crack after the roof. Make sure to put long runners on pro directly below the roof.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 9, 2015
A little research has revealed that though the last few BoCan books have misplaced 'Othello' in terms of where it lies, that this is it.