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Down on the Pharm S 
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Unknown West Crack T 
Unknown/(Bolt Dependence?) S 

Unknown West Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,542
Submitted By: beavs on May 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Crystal Wall, with Unknown West Crack visible as t...


The obvious crack system on the right (west) side of the wall. I don't know the history behind this route and I'm not certain about the grade so if anyone knows more about it pass it on. The first pitch follows broken easy ground with climbing that gradually improves to a belay roughly halfway up. Some bushes/vegetation will be encountered down low. There are probably a few options for the belay but there was an old pin at the spot we chose (along with some good pro).

The 2nd pitch follows the nice 5.9 crack that splits the blank, lichen-covered face to the top right side of the wall, then traverses the crack heading out left below the big roof. Continue left on easy ground to reach the black chain achors at the top of Fantastic Voyage. I heard it is possible (and not as hard as it looks) to climb the crack that goes straight up through the far right side of the big roof at the end, but I haven't done it and know nothing more.


The route starts on the northwest corner of the Crystal Wall to the right of Clean-Up on Aisle 9. The entire line is easy to see from below as it is really the only obvious crack system on the wall other than Thursday Afternoon Hooky. 2 60m ropes will reach the ground from the top anchor.


Standard rack up to around 3".

Photos of Unknown West Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: So you can actually rappel down bolts from the hig...
BETA PHOTO: So you can actually rappel down bolts from the hig...
Rock Climbing Photo: After you pass the bush on the steep headwall, get...
After you pass the bush on the steep headwall, get...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tommy passing through/around the second crux of th...
Tommy passing through/around the second crux of th...

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By Aaron Martinuzzi
Sep 5, 2009

Climbed this route on 4-Sept, and it was dirty and not particularly enjoyable. By the time I made it to the top of the actual crack, I had absolutely no interest in traversing under the big roof, though the traverse did look pretty reasonable after a couple sorta-thin opening moves. I belayed my partner up to the alcove at the top of the crack off of medium cams, and we scrambled to the top of the wall. Walking climber's left will get you to the anchors of Better than Watching TV (previously submitted as Fantastic Voyage). Climbing the face to these anchors probably increases the quality of the route, but after groveling up the mouse and bird shit-filled funky crack and getting inadvertently clipped into a bush with one of my quickdraws, I just didn't really feel like dealing with a traverse pitch.

That said, there is some decent climbing to be had on this route, which is why I gave it one star. The bushes, shit, and muddiness just sort of take away from the more enjoyable sections of climbing.
By Patrick Kehoe
From: Fort Collins
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First pitch had some dangerous loose blocks, was steep and well-featured. Second pitch was good, somewhat exposed and sustained, and had thick lichen. Fun moves between troublesome bushes. I too had no desire to traverse left under the roof because: 1) you're at the top. 2) insane lichen/choss out left.
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Apr 26, 2012

Fun little adventure climb and a pleasant tour nonetheless.
By Brook Wager
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 2, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Although this impressive trad line needs more traffic, the gear is descent and it's not runout. It looks like it might be as you ascend the headwall, but if you save some small nuts and mid-size cams, you'll be just fine. Scrambling over the bush is a bit awkward, but the position and exposure are quite excellent. The beginning of the true crack (P1) has quite nice climbing and lots of feet. We traversed in from below the sport routes, clipping the lowest bolt and made a pitch out of this, making it 3p, just to cut down on rope drag. Was an interesting start. I had to give it 2 stars, because the position is spectacular. With cleaning and traffic, it'll rise to a 3*. Happy climbing.

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