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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
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Californication S 
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 
Dexter S 
Erika S 
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Firestarter S 
Friends S 
Full Respect S 
Hustle T 
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 
Lightning Strike S 
Loyalty S 
Nurse Jackie S 
Quick Silver S 
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Respect T 
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Smallville S 
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Thunderhead S 
Weeds S 

Full Respect 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ed Ash, bolted by Bruno Hache, 2009
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 15, 2009

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Turning that little roof is fun (not as hard as th...

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  • Description 

    This is the left fork variation of currently the 4th bolted line from the left on this buttress. Use your good slab shoes.

    The crux is shared on the bottom slab with the right variation. Ascend a slab with small holds and a key left gaston with tenuous feet after the 3rd clip. Move up to a hanging slab at the 6th bolt. Move left with funky feet. There is one more longer reach and then easy terrain to the top with a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

    Note, those with lesser slab footwork may find the crux stiff for 11-, rated by a good slab climber (not me). Some have called this 11+.

    This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.

    Note, I climbed it, and I don't really climb 5.12 anything.

    Per Bruno Hache: this climbs the first 5 bolts up a slab. Get 1-3 gear placements in the undercling crack, and finish on the upper right hand bolted portion of Respect, NOT UP LEFT.

    There is a variation called Fully Respectful, 5.12-. Climb the first 5 bolts of Full Respect, get one gear placement, then climb up left at 5.10c-ish to a 2-Mussy hook top anchor.

    Location 

    This is the left variation of currently the fourth bolted line from the left.

    Protection 

    14 bolts, good slab footwork.


    Photos of Full Respect Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux.
    The crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Full Respect.
    BETA PHOTO: Full Respect.

    Comments on Full Respect Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By doug rouse
    From: Denver, CO.
    Jun 19, 2013

    Being a Morrison local, the slab felt all of .11+ to me!!! I suppose there are others who consider this easy .11...Chairman of the Board felt easier, as did the Clipboard...my 2-cents
    By Abram Herman
    From: Golden, CO
    Aug 25, 2013
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    My partner and I both felt this is absolutely 11+, don't be fooled by the slab wizards telling you otherwise!
    By Eric Carlos
    From: GJ
    Jun 3, 2014
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    With fat fingers, it makes using a couple of the slots next to impossible. This would feel a couple grades easier with thinner tips.
    By Bruno Hache
    From: Longmont, CO
    Jul 1, 2016

    When I FAed this route in 2009, moves wired, it felt 5.11d.
    About 4 years later, in Alzheimer onsight mode, it felt 5.12a.
    Since then, multiple climbers said 5.11d or 5.12a.
    Saying this route is 5.11- is complete bullshit.
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Aug 27, 2016

    I'm gonna go with El Hache here on this one. Calling this 11 ANYTHING is a bogus move. Hell, there's more feet at a glove factory. SOLID, spanking 12 territory. Maybe I just need to learn the moves? Or maybe I need to lose a hundred pounds.

    Or maybe the assclowns calling this 11- need to have their heads checked....
    By Bruno Hache
    From: Longmont, CO
    Apr 10, 2017

    Update on where this route goes.
    Climb the first 5 bolts up a slab. 1-3 gear placements in the undercling crack and finish on the upper right hand bolted portion of Respect, NOT UP LEFT.

    Variation called Fully Respectful, also 5.12-.
    Climb the first 5 bolts of Full Respect (5.12-), one gear placement, then climb up left at 5.10c-ish to a 2-mussy hook top anchor.

    Hopefully I confused everybody by now....
    (See Respect for yet another variation and even more confusion.)

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