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unknown unknowns 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ???
New Route: Yes
Season: east facing
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: greg k on Aug 29, 2014

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Ryan climbing in the winter morning sunshine

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  • Description 

    months ago, we spotted an anchor about 80 feet up on a vegetated ledge, approx. 20 feet left of puro filipino.
    we wondered what the climbing below would yield… the verdict: pretty stiff climbing on surprisingly solid stone.
    just when we thought we might have bagged a coveted FA, evidence of an earlier ascent materialized: knotted cordage! i kid you not. 2 ancient pieces were crammed in halfway and 3/4 the way up. one piece still remains, demarcating a route older than the bulk of climbers at the dong.
    pretty amazing and certainly worth keeping for posterity in its "natural state"

    newish anchors (probably installed to rap bolt :( the face in question)
    lower or rap with care as a wasp nest is more or less directly under the anchors

    Location 

    left angling system of cracks, left of puro filipino.

    Protection 

    standard rack. don't forget the small stuff and cord!
    316 steel (2011)


    Comments on unknown unknowns Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Nate Ball
    Administrator
    From: Portland, OR
    Sep 1, 2014

    This is incredibly exciting news to hear, Greg! Who did you climb this route with?
    By greg k
    Sep 2, 2014

    Nate,
    ryan and I climbed this route. or should i say ryan very boldly led it and i gingerly followed, trying not to disturb the wasps. go check it out!
    By Nate Ball
    Administrator
    From: Portland, OR
    Sep 19, 2016

    Be mindful on rappel, as a 60m rope just barely makes it to the ground.

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