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Unknown Tower - Northwest Face 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]
FA: Gary Ziegler, Gary Boucher, Bob Doane, John Auld, 1961, FFA? David Kozak, Eric Boehlke, 1983
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 874
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on May 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Top of an unknown tower with Rainbow Tower, Mikes ...


This is one of the originals. Mediocre climbing at best is made up for by an adventurous experience, a remote setting, and sweet views of the entire Momument Canyon.

P1: Climb a short pitch through the Chinle and up through a lieback (cruxy) to a bolted belay. 5.9.

P2: Climb this long pitch up through wondering wide terrain exiting a 5.9 squeeze (crux) and onto the ledge before the summit caprock.

P3: Climb a scary sequence off the belay to the summit. This is not worth it in my opinion. C1.

Double 70m ropes will get you to the ground with rope streach. Watch the pull as we got our ropes severly hung up when they fell. Better maybe to rap to the bench at the base of Pharoah Point and third class it to the base.


Follow the trail down from the upper Monument trailhead and head right down into the main wash as the main trail passes Clueless Tower and makes a hard left. Jog right into the wash and follow it upstream.


Singles to a #5 Friend. Hexes #5, 8, 10, 12.

Photos of Unknown Tower - Northwest Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The North West faces of Egypt Rock and Pharoh Poin...
The North West faces of Egypt Rock and Pharoh Poin...

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By Stewart M. Green
Jul 17, 2008

Those four did the FA in 1961. They were all members of the Colorado College Mountaineering Club. Gary told me that he made special bongs for the ascent that were over 8 inches wide! He said they sounded like a herd of cows walking to the base of the tower with all those clanking aluminum bongs.
By David Kozak
Nov 18, 2011

Leading all three pitches, I believe I did the first free ascent of this route with Eric Boehlke in 1983. On the second pitch was a large, razor sharp flake embedded in the wide crack. The crux of the route for me was getting past that flake without dislodging it. I suggested to Eric that he not touch it. He wasn't able to make the moves to get around it, so he used it as gently as possible to get away from it. No luck. He pulled it onto himself where it sliced through his pants and left a foot long gash on his thigh. With bleeding controlled, we topped out and rapped off without further excitement. Not the best route I've ever done, but the remote setting was cool.

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