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Unknown (South Face Middle) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 90
Submitted By: George Perkins on May 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Follow bolts up a face. Place gear in a right faci...

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Step up to the big roof. Place pro underneath (small cam) and turn the roof (1st crux) to horizontal handholds and the first bolt. The 2nd crux is right around the 2nd bolt in a thin slab section. Up higher, you'll pass a cool quartz vein and enter a right-facing dihedral with some tricky pro but easier climbing.

This climb is probably a little harder than the bolted climb to its right, and is almost as good. Like the nearby bolted climbs, it is well-protected, so it's a good climb for a someone breaking into the 5.9 grade at TP.


This is the middle of the 3 bolted climbs on the south face of South Rock. It starts at the lower right end of the big roof.

This is "Unknown #5" in 'Taos Rock'


3 bolts, plus some gear (nuts and cams from fingers to 2").
Rappel off the common anchor on the south side.

Photos of Unknown (South Face Middle) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta fro "Unknown Middle"
BETA PHOTO: Beta fro "Unknown Middle"

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By Hazen Goodyear
Nov 27, 2008

This is a really fun climb! The 15 feet from the top of the block to the last bolt is sweet. I climbed it without knowing the grade and felt that the bolted part was a little harder then 5.9+, but then again my shoes have split toes. I only took nuts with me and only placed one of them. There are lot of places to put gear but after the last bolt the climbing eaes up (solid lay backs) and I felt ok running it out.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Jul 4, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I thought this was the best of the three "Unknown" mostly-bolted lines on this side of South Rock, though the other two are quite nice as well. Harder than the line to it's right, and only a little easier than the so-called "5.10+" to it's left.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agree that this is the best of the three, mainly for its interesting movement and sequences. Liked being able to place gear where I wanted it and the fun exposure.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The left trending semi-detached column-like feature just left of the quarts dike/groove feature where the face steepens is awful hollow. Its easy not to use that feature but be careful. Other than that, a fun route.
By Levi Wilner
From: Alamosa, CO
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is the only climb of the 3 'Unknowns' with anchor bolts at the top.
By David Baltz
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Aug 1, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The rating depends on how far to the left one moves through the slab section at the second bolt (left is 5.9).

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