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Unknown Route On The Right TR 
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Unknown Route On The Right 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Year around
Page Views: 177
Submitted By: Chad Parker on Oct 8, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Unknown Route On The Right.

Description 

Scramble up the obvious gully on the left to set the top rope. Be sure no one is standing below while you do this, way too many loose blocks up there. BE CAREFUL.

Start in the corner and climb up about 8' and and step right then up to the obvious larger holds. Climb strait up until you're above the chock stone and can step right onto the chock stone. Traverse right a few feet and climb the short but fun crack to the top.

The crux is the first 20 feet until you get to the large holds in the middle of the face.

Location 

This route is not on the main climbing face. From the main climbing area walk right around the corner past Beginnings about 40 feet.

Protection 

Anchor is fixed. A 9.5mm climbing rope with 2 quick links. Top rope. (Optional) bring a red or #7 wired stopper for a directional. This piece can be placed in a solid crack above and to the left of the large chock stone.


Photos of Unknown Route On The Right Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: You can see where the nut placement goes in this p...
BETA PHOTO: You can see where the nut placement goes in this p...

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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 9, 2016

Chad, thanks for posting this route. I am aware of ascents of the first half of this route as a tall boulder problem going back more than 15 years. Climbers would exit left just above the chalkstone. It is also likely that the face above was top-roped.

Please consider that this route could remain a boulder problem and a top-rope. It does not "need" bolts.

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