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Unknown Right Side Trad T 

Unknown Right Side Trad 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, 2005
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Rich F. on Sep 18, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The approximate route -- note the diagonalling tra...

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This route climbs the right of two cracks located about 15 feet right of "Anything but the Fast Lane." Most of the climbing is about 5.6ish. There is a bush about 8 feet up on the start that you must go around to the left. At the top of the cracks, you will have to move diagonally up and left for 20 feet, then finish the route with a traverse left for 10 feet to the anchor for Anything but the Fast Lane.

The route is dirty -- someone must have been climbed it before but not recently. I saw the crack and started up it, because it looked like an easy layback, knowing it was not in my guidebook -- but I also thought I saw black anchor chains at the top of the left crack. When I got up there, it was not anchor chains -- it was bird poop! So, I had to traverse up and about 25 feet left to get to the anchors for Anything but the Fast Lane. The hardest part of the climb was probably the 10 feet of left horizontal traverse to the anchors.


This is two obvious cracks about 15 feet right of "Anything but the Fast Lane." The left crack is fairly wide, and the right crack looks like it's good for a layback. There's a bush about 8 feet off the ground on a small ledge in the right crack. You may have to do a little gardening in both cracks.


I place about three cams in the cracks from BD #1 to a #4, then a few more cams from a 0.3 to a #1 on the diagonalling left traverse.

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By Stewart M. Green
Nov 8, 2011

FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, 2005. Kind of a crappy route, so we didn't put an anchor in. Just to the left is another route that also climbs up and left.

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