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Unknown (Right of Four Play) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: not summer
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Feb 9, 2010  with updates from Jon Ruland

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is the obvious corner right of Four Play. The climbing is enjoyable and never harder than moderate 5.9. However, if you don't want to lower off of a single bolt (w/ring), you must traverse left and finish with the last 3 bolts of Four Play, which is 5.10 climbing. This climb is worth doing if you have the correct rack.

Location 

The obvious, wide, left-facing corner just to the right of Four Play.

Protection 

Mostly larger cams. I don't think a number 6 camalot is necessary, and there are some opportunities for smaller placements. It is easy to eyeball from the base and see what you need. Long sling for the single bolt at the top, and 3 draws for the Four Play finish.


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By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 29, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

very cool crack with actual offwidthing as well as some stemming. worth bringing the big gear if you go for that sort of thing.
By Justin Headley
From: Tucson
Dec 18, 2016

Meh. You can stem or do awkward face climbing the whole way. Legit offwidth technique is not necessary. Rock quality isn't great. Some blocks inside the crack seemed loose. It was an excuse to use my #6 cam and Big Bro but it's not interesting enough to ever repeat. It has it's own anchors now so you don't have to finish on Four Play.

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