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Unknown Reality starts out in a wide, flaring corner with rounded edges. A small roof complicates things at this cruxy start. You have several options, all of which are technical (or crazy), barn door to a lieback stance, chickenwing the offwidth to some big fist jams (my fists are too small) or pull over the small roof on bad crimps just to the right before swinging back into the crack. After the crux, there is significantly easier climbing in the crack with ample stemming opportunities. The top third is the easiest part of all, weighing in at a mere 5.7. The guidebook beta I had gave this a 5.9 rating (dr.topo), so it is possible that there is a trick to this route (see various rants on ratings in forum discussions). IMHO, there are far better routes to try at this area. On a more positve note, this would be a fun alternative start to Solar Eclipse.
Crack to the immediate right of Solar Eclipse.
#3 and #4 camalot (or equivalent) required to protect initial crux moves. Standard rack with emhapsis on medium gears sews up what remains. Use two anchor bolts from Solar Eclipse for descent.
BETA PHOTO: Unknown Reality is the wider crack on the far righ...
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Feb 14, 2011
did this climb on feb 12, i thought it was really good. Be sure to get those hands in deep though. i placed a #2, 3, and 4 camalot but a .75 or .5 would fit in the top but it's not really necessary.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 19, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No need to lieback or pull on crimps. This baby is a (mildly) sandy fist crack with some great feet.
By Mike Womack
Dec 28, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I only TR-ed this because of the 10c rating. But the holds and feet were really solid and I thought it went 5.9. Next time, I will have the do the lead. Very fun and worth doing!