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Sofa Kingdom S 
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Unknown Prow T 
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Unknown Prow 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: somebody naughty
Page Views: 237
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Dave does the right finish.

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  • Description 

    This is a strange route that uses bolts and some gear on a right-angling line to catch a crusty, slippery boulder problem up high.

    Start down and right of Sofa Kingdom and Theen Crack below some bolts. Scramble up to the 1st bolt. Move up onto a slightly crumbly slab clipping a couple bolts before finding a surprising amount of grey epoxy on a flake. Keep angling right. Once below the crux bulge, you may clip the bolt on the route to the right in case you didn't bring any gear. Move up and clip the bolt below the flaring crack. Now, the difficulty suddenly increase as you get a wide hands jam in the flare. Your feet may skate on the crumbly slab as you try to lieback the flare. You can switch directions with a loose foot jam or continue liebacking up to the funky anchor with a bolt and bit of chains and a bolt with a coldshut. If this is close to your limit, you may sweat these last moves not wanting to fall onto the slab below.

    Location 

    This is down and right of Sofa Kingdom and Theen Crack.

    Protection 

    Bolts and some finger-sized gear. One could get a marginal big hands-sized piece in near the crux, but that would take away a key hold.


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    By Dave Clark 5.10
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 17, 2014
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

    Irregular and licheny, it will perhaps deserve one star if it cleans up. Closely bolted on 5.7 terrain down low, then not so well-protected on the much more difficult (10+?) and slippery crux up high.
    By Jason Platt
    Oct 30, 2016
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Fairly easy to the obvious upper crux. A number 3 fits fairly well in the crux crack but does take away a couple of finger locks. Can be liebacked as well which may be easier due to better feet.

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