Unknown Pleasures Rock Climbing
The view of American Fork Canyon from Unknown Plea...
An east-facing wall in a lovely location on the south side of the canyon, above and west of Black Magic
. The wall is a good summer afternoon crag as all but two routes are in the shade all afternoon and the location is quite pleasant.
There are two 5.10 routes, both stemming corner routes; the rest of the twelve routes are 5.12, most face and arete routes with a roof or two thrown in. This link
shows an oblique, aerial view (the crag is in the center of the photo).
Routes left to right:
1. Leapin' Lizards
2. Shadowplay .12d (shares first bolt with Leapin' Lizards
3. Persona Non Grata
The next 3 routes share the first five bolts:
5. Substance .12b
6. Unknown Pleasures
7. Closer .12b
On north-facing wall around outside corner:
8. DK .11a
9. DK unfinished (up black streak)
10. 12 (Bad bolts)
11. DK .11+
12. DK .11-
13. DK .10d
In corner between north-facing and east facing wall:
14. DK .8
On east-facing wall past inside corner:
15. Touch of Grey
16. DK Unfinished
.11c (with 2nd pitch above and left)
18. DK Unfinished
19. DK Unfinished
Around the buttress on the west side:
20. Osmosis .12a
21. Active Transport .12a/b
Park at a small pullout
(click for Google Street View) almost exactly .5 miles from the National Monument visitors' center (the pullout is the first on the right past the parking for Beer Can Alley
A bit downstream (100' or so) is a log spanning the river (as of May 2012). Cross here and follow a faint trail up and right across talus, heading for the right side of the obvious buttress up and slightly right of where you crossed. After a short while you will come to the obvious Black Magic
. Continue past the cave and take the upper of the two trails that leave the cave area and head west.
Follow the trail up a talus slope and you will be deposited at the left side crag base.
Climbing Season For the American Fork Canyon area.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
8 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Unknown Pleasures
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Unknown Pleasures
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Unknown Pleasures:
Featured Route For Unknown Pleasures
Touch of Grey 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Utah
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Unknown Pleasures
A fine line on less-than-fine rock for part of the way, with stellar stone from about halfway on.The line starts by curving to the left, apparently to avoid even poorer rock. At the third bolt the line heads more or less straight up for several bolts, but eventually trends back to the right. The whole line is a shallow C-shape.There is a good rest on the route but you'll have to be willing to find it. Otherwise, the sections before and after the rest are fairly sustained, wit...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
By Melissa K
Aug 20, 2014
Hey just wondering if anyone has any more information about the routes around the corner. I see them listed above but was wondering if the "unfinshed" meant it was open. I was up there the other day and didn't notice any red tags, but also wasn't looking for them. Are these open projects?
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Aug 21, 2014
In this case "unfinished" means that the lines are bolted but not yet fully cleaned. Might be dangerous to climb.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 17, 2015
I saw DK up at membrane recently and he implied many of these routes are good to go, although a few of them are still not cleaned sufficiently. One he mentioned (not sure which!) has a death block on it. Next time I head up I'll do any/all that seem safe.
By greg austin
From: Lehi, Utah
Dec 7, 2015
Climb 13 on this list is a thriller, possibly a 4 star climb, I think. Climb 14 is a 5.9 I think, and is also way fun. It has an airy chimney that will take your breath away. Time for some more info on these climbs please. What are 16,18, and 19?