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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: ???
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Submitted By: Matt Rauen on Jun 29, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: A full view of route from below. Gain access to t...

Description 

This is a fun but sketchy route, as first 2 bolts are distant. It is a slab climb with a chimney middle. Free climb first 10 feet (5.8) to ledge. From here, a couple quick moves over a bulge (5.9) will grant you access to the first bolt about another 8 feet above. If you feel uncomfortable here, a #6 BD would work nicely before your move over the bulge. Somebody tall placed bolts, as someone 5'8" or shorter is on their tiptoes to clip in several places. After the first bolt, work your way into the chimney/crack up about 15 feet (5.9+) to the second bolt. A fall here would keep you in the crack but as a human ping pong. Moves are simple and controlled, but it is run out and would be a worrisome fall. After second bolt, move out onto the face and follow the obvious bolted line (5.9-) the remaining 60 feet to a 2 bolt anchor. A 70m rope makes for a nice double rope rappel to the ground placing you next to the pine tree against the base of the rock to the right of where you began your climb.

Location 

It is SE of parking pullout on east side of CO Hwy 141. Walk uphill approximately 200 yards to the base of the climb, just uphill from cattleguard about 3/8 mile. Painted hangers mark the route and an eagle eye from the highway will reveal the 2 bolt anchors.

Protection 

This route is bolted generously towards the top 2/3 of the route but is bolt anemic in the bottom 1/3. We climbed this without any trad gear but would have liked a piece or two for a little peace of mind in the beginning. Our #5 BD was too small for anything except a marginal placement 6 feet below first bolt just above first ledge. The crack in between 1st and 2nd bolt might take #6 BD, but a Bigbro would work best. This is not a climb for 5.9 climber looking for a sport route. For that type of climber, Grit Wall or the Four Blocks Crag would be much more fun and safer. A fall in between the 1st and 2nd bolt (15+ feet) would ping pong you down the crack or if you came out onto the face would land you on the top of the first ledge. This is the reasoning for the R rating. The rest of the climb is well-bolted.

There is a two bolt anchor at the top. The rappel down wants to swing you to the face which requires a 70m rope. A 60m rope would work if you stayed on top of the bolted line. A top rope would be awkward after as a fall would tend to swing the climber out onto the face of the climb making it difficult to get back onto the route.


Photos of Unknown (pending input) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the bottom as a rope is thrown for r...
BETA PHOTO: The view from the bottom as a rope is thrown for r...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from top looking down along bolt line tha...
The view from top looking down along bolt line tha...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the top looking west to parking area...
BETA PHOTO: The view from the top looking west to parking area...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from top of climb to the north along cliff li...
BETA PHOTO: View from top of climb to the north along cliff li...
Rock Climbing Photo: David standing next to the tree where the natural ...
BETA PHOTO: David standing next to the tree where the natural ...

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By garrettem
Jun 30, 2014

I don't know much about this route other than it has been there for several years. I climbed it maybe 4-5 years ago or so. There are some more mystery routes farther up the canyon on the left side across from the triangle boulder area for anyone interested. Some of those look challenging.

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