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West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bernal Sanders S 
Colonel of Bernal S 
Feel the Bernal S 
Filo Noroccidental S 
Kernal of Bernal S 
Unknown PdB 1 T 
Unknown PdB 2 S 
Unknown PdB 3 S 
Unknown PdB 4 T 
Unknown PdB 5 S 
Up or Down Chimney T 

Unknown PdB 5 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Mar 27, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking at the lines on the upper right portion of...

Description 

This is the first route that you will encounter on the approach from the main trail and monster/dinosaur rock. The climb starts to the left of a very obvious gully/chimney.

Climb past seven bolts up along left slanting cracks to an anchor below the orange ceiling.

Location 

There are about ten fun, moderate routes that are down around the corner to the left of Filo Suroeste. To approach these climbs, hike up the main trail as if you are going toward the Bernalina face. About 100 yards before Bernalina, take a side path that goes up the hillside. This side path leaves the main trail near a wire basket filled with rocks (see descriptive pictures).

Go uphill about 50 vertical feet on the side path to a boulder that is painted like a monster/dinosaur. This boulder is on top of the shoulder/ridge that comes off the Pena.

Follow a path down the back side of the shoulder/ridge, staying at the base of the rock. In about 100 yards, you'll come to a face with a series of left-slanting cracks that look a bit like a corrugated metal roof. There is a long, orange ceiling above this face. These are the rightmost, upper routes on this wall.

At the left end of this face, there's a drop off of about 20 vertical feet.

This is the first route that you will encounter on the approach from the main trail and monster/dinosaur rock. The climb starts to the left of a very obvious gully/chimney.

The climb roughly follows the green dashed line on the photo of this face.

Protection 

Seven bolts and a two bolt anchor. 20m


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By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
Dec 8, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Green line on beta photo. Very thin past the first bolt, we called it .8/.9. After that it is 5.5L. The L is for mucho lichen. If this were brushed it would be a good climb for new leaders, as long as the first bolt were clipped.
As with the adjoining routes, rock quality was very good.

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