REI Community
Rockfellow Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abracadaver T 
Good Zzzzzs T 
Inner Passage T 
Jabberwocky T,S 
Knead Me 
Labyrinth, The T 
Lumpy Unmentionables T 
Sensory Desuetude T 
Sound of One Hand Thrashing T 
Unknown S 
Unknown (NE Face) T 
Unknown (S Face) T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown (NE Face) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Geir on Oct 4, 2014

You & This Route
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pitch 2. Bandersnatch continues straight up on bo...

Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A five pitch route up the northeast face of Rockfellow Dome. This is a linkup of at least two routes, Bandersnatch and Cliffhanger.

Pitch 1 (5.10+, 85'): Start on a 10' long right-angling weakness. Climb it and move on to slab clipping four bolts. Move right into a chimney and climb it 30' protecting with gear on its right side. When holds become visible on the arete on the arete to the left, traverse directly left (5.9), move around the arete, and belay at t a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.9, 40'): Climb up past two bolts, then step right from the arete toward an easy, narrow ledge. (Bandersnatch continues straight up on the bolted slab). Follow the ledge up and right to a shrub. A two-bolt anchor lies past the shrub.

Pitch 3 (5.11, 90'): Climb past a bolt to gain the bolted crack. After the crack seams out climb a slab climb past two more bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.11, 95'): Climb up and left through a bulge, then work up and slightly right past four bolts on 5.10/10+ slab toward an arete with big holds. Make a few steep moves up and left when getting on to the arete, then continue on easy ground to a two bolt belay.

Pitch 5 (5.10, 140'): Step up and right to a brilliant crack and flake system (this is the last pitch of Jabberwocky.) Climb it for 15', protect, then move left to a bolt line. Climb the bolt line (5.10) past six bolts, then run it out on 5.7 terrain for 40' up and right. Belay at a two-bolt anchor. This is the top of Jabberwocky and also the start of the Abracadaver descent.

Either use the Abracadaver descent or rappel the east face as shown on the topo.

A draft topo for this face can be downloaded by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/free/rockfell...

Location 

Look for the bolted slab approximately 50' left of Jabberwocky. See the beta photo.

Protection 

Quickdraws, stoppers, and a single set cams to 3". If climbing pitch 3 on gear extra cams from 1"-2" are helpful.


Photos of Unknown (NE Face) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on pitch 4
Looking down on pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: The route starts up the slab under the roof on the...
The route starts up the slab under the roof on the...

Comments on Unknown (NE Face) Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About