REI Community
The Northern End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anorexic Doughboy T 
Bedside Manner T 
Beer Float, The T 
Desperado T 
Girls with Chim(n)ay T 
Gods Must Be Angry, The T 
Great Googlie Moogli T 
Lively Up Yourself T 
Ninjinski T 
Northern Throne, The T 
Ol' Dirty Bastard T 
Plumbline T 
Rodeo Crack T 
Route 66 T 
Salad Daze T 
Shasta T 
Sleepy Hallow T 
T-Handles T 
Talkin' It Clean T 
Underground Up T 
Unknown Moderate T 
Usual Suspects T 
Where's Noah Vibbert T 
Wiggle Room, The T 

Unknown Moderate 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: Michael Richichi on Oct 26, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Climb the stem box into the left hand crack before...

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This may fall under "Northern End Moderates" in the Rakkup guide, but I think it's worth pulling out and mentioning here! To the left of Route 66, around the two bulging columns, is a nice stem box with thin seams on either side and some horizontal breaks on the middle column. Climb up the steeper section, then move in to the left crack when it goes much less than vertical for some awesome low angle hand and foot jamming.

Location 

Left of Route 66 and right of bright green lichen column, starts in stem box.

Protection 

Gear through 3", traverse right to get to Route 66 "anchor" (one cord and two slings wrapped around a boulder with one locker and one non-locker). Either build an anchor for top roping, or have a follower clean the route. Be careful to not get your rope stuck when pulling it!


Comments on Unknown Moderate Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Stabley
From: Portland, OR
Nov 6, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If the 2010 Wenger guide listed this, I'd guess it would be "route 77". I guess you could traverse right to the route 66 "anchor", but you can also go straight up until topping out on a flatish area below the cliff top. Build your own anchor or use a single bolt + webbing anchor on the left.
By Michael Richichi
From: Stuttgart, Germany
Nov 25, 2016

I climbed it again and continued up the crack to use the anchor you described! I think that is the better finish. Webbing plus one bolt, which is used for the wide climbs left of this one.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About