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Slug Wall
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Unknown (left side) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 199
Submitted By: J. Hickok on Sep 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Rappelling the unknown 5.10 route.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Left facing corner that starts fingers and widens to 3.5", with all sizes in between. Small roof at top. The rock is good on this route, but it's hard to give it 3 stars, although for the Slug Wall alone it would be 3 stars.

Location 

Towards the left side of the wall, but before you go left around the corner to the west facing routes on the front wall. Obvious left facing corner on good rock that stops beneath larger roof.

Protection 

Fingers to big hands. Bring 2 each of 3" and 3.5" (or roughly 3 blue camalots). Anchor is so so - don't lower, rappel (of course this should generally go without saying for most routes at the Creek).


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By Nick Barczak
Nov 23, 2012

Very fun route. Some finger pieces (yellow, orange, red (x2), then black metolius gets you up to a nice rest stance. Then, two #2 camalots, followed by three #3 camalots (I placed four), gets you to the anchor.

This anchor could use a replacement.
By Jason Anderson
Nov 27, 2012

I propose the name Slug Tooth, due to the tooth feature halfway up.