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Happy Hour Crag
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Cruel Shoes TR 
Dementia T,TR 
Great Race, The T 
Grins T,TR 
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Twofers Gully T,TR 

Left Side 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 3,783
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jun 5, 2007  with updates from Carl Schaefer

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (103)
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BETA PHOTO: The line is in the center.

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  • Description 

    This route doesn't appear in Rossiter's or Rolofson's Boulder Canyon guidebooks, but I'm sure it's been climbed for a long time.

    The route is a good beginner lead as it can be sewn up. The crux is brief and well-protected.


    This route is the first crack system to the left of I, Robot. Walk off the top.


    Standard rack. A bigger piece might ease the mind of a beginning leader. A sturdy tree at the top of the route can be tied off for an anchor.

    Photos of Left Side Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Close to the bottom, Bill?
    Close to the bottom, Bill?
    Rock Climbing Photo: Laura soloing the unknown left side.
    Laura soloing the unknown left side.

    Comments on Left Side Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris O'Connor
    From: boulder, co
    Jul 6, 2007
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    Great route for beginners.
    By Scott McMahon
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 23, 2009

    Great route...just a note that I found that a #4 BD wasn't big enough for the crux (if you want it). Next time I'll probably at least bring a #4.5. You can avoid the big piece by placing a cam up in the crux sidepull.
    By HTP
    From: Longmont, CO
    Sep 13, 2009

    You can really sew this up with medium to big gear--very reassuring for beginning leaders. Scott mentioned his #4 Camalot wasn't big enough, but I found a place to make it work...and even climbed higher and scooted it up, so I guess I found two spots for it. :)
    By Stacy Fobar
    From: Denver, CO
    Apr 29, 2010

    You can easily set up a TR from the tree at the top of this climb. I would suggest hiking up the left side to set up the TR and hiking back down vs. rapping since the top is rather blocky and would make for a slow and careful rap. Great exposure to rock for beginners.
    By Joshinator
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Nov 19, 2011
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    The climbing on this route is all pretty straightforward, but I thought the crux was a little spicy and I took my time with it.
    By Joshinator
    From: Longmont, Colorado
    Jan 3, 2012
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    Also, I think a number 4 works just fine in the crux. You can even bring up another if you want to protect the final 4th class moves to the anchor.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jan 15, 2014
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    A #4 Camalot works great. You could place something bigger, but it is really not necessary.
    By Jeff Limbocker
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 24, 2017

    Good route. As others have said, the pro at the crux can be a little wide. Deep in the back of the crack near the top is a tipped out #3, so a #4 would probably work. Having nothing quite that wide, I placed a 0.3 in the sidepull and just decided not to fall. This was a friend's first ever outdoor climb, and it seemed like a good fit for him.

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