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Mallethead
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unknown (left one) 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: SAyers?
Page Views: 529
Submitted By: greg k on Apr 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

steep climbing up overhanging granite on big jugs. probably no move is harder than 10+ but the sustained nature pushes this climb and its sister into the easy 11 range. long reach approx. halfway up could be characterized as the crux

Location 

contour due west from start of Muttonhead south-side climbs (Mystery of the Desert, etc.) for approx. 200 feet. left bolted route. starts on small elevated platform

Protection 

at least 12 bolts


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By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is a modern classic in my opinion. Climbing overhung fins is a perfect finish to a day of multi-pitch slab.

That said I have yet to try the route to the right or Sheep Thrills. Additionally a number of the holds have been reinforced with epoxy.
By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 23, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Hendrixson you are correct this route is perfect to finish the day around the Sheephead area. Great single pitch route!