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Bad Rad Duality T 
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Too Much Cake T 
Triple Jeopardy T 
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Unknown T,TR 
Unknown Left of The Wave T 
Unknown on far left side of wall T 
Unknown Right of Too Much Cake T 
Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed Finger Crack Between Wild Works of Fire & IHC T 
Wave, The T 
Wild Works of Fire T 
Zow T 
Unsorted Routes:

Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,313
Submitted By: Jared Brown on Apr 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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"Stick" clip.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is just left of Keyhole Flake and climbs a offwidth flake to a step right across to a fun, thin lieback flake. The step across is the crux.

Protection 

A few cams from .5 to 2 Camalot, a large stopper on a stick or a very large cam might protect the start


Photos of Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: I just traversed from the wide crack to the thin c...
I just traversed from the wide crack to the thin c...
Rock Climbing Photo: The chalk marks are the 12- variation to this rout...
The chalk marks are the 12- variation to this rout...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jenny climbs the wide start.  Photo by J P Boyd.
Jenny climbs the wide start. Photo by J P Boyd.

Comments on Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Oct 6, 2003

A number 10 Metolius nut works very well to protect the bottom of the crack. If your leader is WAY to sketched out to place this, there are two options: Lift someone on to your shoulders to place the nut on a QD or place a #5 Camalot in the huge offwidth on the left that contains the side-pull hold necessary to gain the crack. Led this for the second time yesterday and all I have to say is that the nut is BOMBER... Make sure your belayer is to the right of the climb near the wall to avoid BAD rope-burn...
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Sep 19, 2010

the number 5 BD cam doesn't fit at the top of the OW crack. we got way too sketched out so we picked up a girl and she set a nut to start it off. i would recommend it because the kid who led it after we placed the nut would've decked. he took a nice fall on the nut. without it... ouch.
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 3, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

A #6 C4 works to protect the offwidth (I'm sure a #6 Friend would work too). It's not big enough for the very top of the offwidth, but it can be set high enough to prevent a groundfall when traversing right into the finger crack. I'd recommend the big piece for this route, especially if it's your first time on it. The traverse move is a bit funky and a fall from there could be ugly. Great climb though!

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