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Unknown [Just Shy Of The Tip] S 

Unknown [Just Shy Of The Tip] 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,276
Submitted By: Mike Zasadzien on May 21, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Sport Route

Description 

Instead of the 4th class scrambling going up and to the left, there is a set of 8 bolts that get you directly to the new bolted anchors mid-way. The route is a bit dusty in bits, but the rock makes for easy step-ups between clips. To climb the rest of it, see the Classic route's description. [Route only showed up recently, would love to credit whoever put it up as well as it's proper name]

Location 

Right in front of the right tree, to the right of the classic scramble

Protection 

8 Bolts to anchor.


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Aug 14, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route adds a healthy pitch of climbing to this otherwise all-too-brief route. Rock quality is often suspect, edges and ledges are dirty, and the bolts are some budget bullshit, but it still makes for a worthwhile approach to the upper pitch. The scramble is super easy, so if you're not in a hurry, take this line.

Route can be rapped with a 60m rope.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 14, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is the best way to access the midway anchors. And using this start also allows you to do the entire climb in one pitch as well.
By Isaac
From: Portland
Jul 10, 2017

Agree with prior two comments. I don't see any reason to do the "classic" meandering option with this section bolted. Straight-forward and direct approach to midway anchor. Even though this is a short multi, be sure to establish non-verbal communication signals with partner as it is difficult to hear with freeway noise/gorge wind. Also, we careful of poison oak, esp. near the base of the route. And afterward, go take a dip in the Columbia and cool off with the nudies!

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