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Unknown handcrack 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,736
Submitted By: Tony B on May 5, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Taken from the Saddlehorn CG area. You won't see ...

6/25-6/26/16 Otto's Route, vicinity, and rap will be closed! MORE INFO >>>


Walk to the North Face of Independence Monument, then look toward its left side (East) some distance from the base of Otto's Route. There is a 40 to 50 foot handcrack there with some webbing at the top, from which you can retreat (or, at least I put some there in 1997). This route ascends to a ledge on the "shoulder" of the main rock. This is just left of the first pitch of Slavery, or perhaps (slim chance) is the first pitch of Slavery. It is visible as a faint line on the lower left of the rock in the attached photo.

I know nothing of the history or proposed grade of this route, but scribbled down its location. I remember thinking the grade to be perhaps 5.10b, but I was not and am not presently familiar with the local grades- this is an "Indian Creek" rating, as it were.

If you have information on this system, please add some.


A set of cams with perhaps a double around hand size.

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By Micahisaac
From: Longmont, CO
May 13, 2009

I would say that Tony's grade of 10b is about right as an Indian Creek rating. The anchor has one good drilled pin and one manky pin placed in a breaking horizontal crack. I recommend you back it up.
Also tried to top rope the crack that starts about 10' right of this route. It is full of choss and is completely loose and detached at the roof section. I suggest you steer clear of this route.

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