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Xochipili Headwall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ana S 
El Poder Blanco T 
El Techo de Limites T 
Unknown (Alternate Finish) T 
Unknown (Finger Crack Start) T 
Unknown (Girdle Traverse) T 
Xochipili S 

Unknown (Girdle Traverse) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 25
Submitted By: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Apr 3, 2017

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Follower's POV from the little stance after cl...

Description 

This is not a route in itself, but a combination of interesting sections of the existing ones. Its whole point is to traverse the Xochipili Headwall from right to left.

Start by climbing up El Techo de Limites, passing its first crux on suspect gear (5.10c PG13) then stepping left to a small stance. Place a couple medium sized cams then start traversing hard left on small holds (5.9+ R), aiming for one of the bolts halfway up Ana, and then another one on Xochipili. Downclimb a few meters till you're able to go around a corner and into the shallow dihedral of El Poder Blanco. Climb this one to its top and belay from the anchors of Acrofobia.

Make sure to use long slings for the entire way, since rope drag can be heinous. Also make sure to carefully belay up your second. Enjoy!

Location 

This route starts from the far right end of the Xochipili Headwall.

Protection 

Standard rack from #.1 to #2 Camalot, nuts, and many long slings.


Photos of Unknown (Girdle Traverse) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra traversing left towards on...
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra traversing left towards on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra climbing the final section...
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra climbing the final section...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on the small stance after ...
Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on the small stance after ...

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