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North Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
An Eye For an Eye T 
Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") S 
Buddha Bukstein Crack T 
Just The Fad 
Panacea Roof S 
Remedy S 
Turn the Other Cheek T,TR 
Walk The Line T 

Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 770
Submitted By: SteveZ on Oct 5, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Rhoads.

Description 

Begins up eye for an eye to the roof, then traverses left on big holds and around the corner up increasingly thin edges on a slab face.

Location 

First route encountered as you come up the hill from the road.
Begins same as Eye for an eye, moves left at large roof.

Protection 

7 or 8 bolts. One bolt with quick link at top or top out.


Photos of Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown. Goes to the roof then continues to follow...
BETA PHOTO: Unknown. Goes to the roof then continues to follow...

Comments on Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Jun 17, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Not as good as Eye. Gets harder the higher you go on the slab, I bailed left at the last bolt to gain the top.
By Alexander Molzahn
Jun 11, 2015

FYI, there's no longer a quicklink on the last bolt.
By Alexander Molzahn
Jul 27, 2015

I replaced the quicklink last week.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Apr 24, 2016

This thing is fantastic and deserves a real name! Great climbing through the first 3 bolts then into a fun traverse leading to a couple powery moves to gain the final slab! Topout directly over the last bolt for some great final moves and hang an anchor off the tree!

Also there is a cool direct start that is pretty hard, maybe goes at V5. You can do it safely if you stick clip the second bolt.
By Tradoholic
Apr 28, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For name I suggest "Bucky's Paradise".
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Apr 28, 2016

^ I like it! :)