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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Ash? energized bolter(s)?
Page Views: 1,994
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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BETA PHOTO: Smallville after starting on Californication (regu...

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  • Description 

    This is a route that starts on funky terrain but ascends a brief, interesting, crux past an "ear" of sorts. If you stretch, it's sort of reminiscent of a mini-"ear" pitch on Primrose.

    This has a weird start with a bolt before you start, bolt on a block, then you move right on funky, crumbly terrain with rock scars. Go up to a black (rappable) hanger below an overlap. There are two choices: try the funky hand jam / gaston under the ear (brutish and scrunched) or the more improbable looking palm smearing of the outside of the ear. Finish at a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. Oddly, there are 2 bolts with no hangers just left of the anchor.

    This may have been climbed in the 1980s by Ed Ash.


    This is on the right side of the northwest aspect of this crag ascending an "ear"-like feature.


    7-8 bolts.

    Comments on Smallville Add Comment
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    By rob bauer
    From: Golden, CO
    Jul 11, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I thought this was fun. (I started in the alcove, climbed the face and small rt facing dihedral.) Couple of hand jams, an arm bar and then outside to the diagonal crack and up. If nobody had been on the next route to the right, I'd have probably gone to those anchors, but up and left worked fine with a directional cam (.4 or .5) at the ledge.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 22, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Not so great, honestly. I can't say as if I thought it was a good route. It was awkward on 2 ascents, but never challenging in a good way.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Aug 18, 2011
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    The ear reminded me of Lumpy and was pretty hard for a warm up.... First I tried to jam and chimney behind it, but it was easier to just layback on the outside.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Aug 9, 2016
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    It has much improved with age, having cleaned up quite a bit.
    By crackatoa Spiesbach
    From: Boulder,Co
    Jun 12, 2017
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Awkward and grunty for me... not terribly hard but definitely not a give away for the grade. It's a nice change compared to the techy slabs that the rest of the cliff offers.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 1, 2017

    I thought the hand jams were good enough near the ear, but facing right and chimneying seemed easier to reach the jugs.

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