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Unknown Crag near Gloucester, Massachusetts

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Before the Dinosaurs  

Unknown Crag near Gloucester, Massachusetts  Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Joe M., Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tim Waystrong on Mar 23, 2009


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It is beach front bouldering. Ir is an awesome time if it's a nice day. There are only about three boulder problems that I have found so far. There is good potential for more also.

The first one is an overhanging problem of an arete. Start under the boulder with good handholds the foot holds aren't very good, so use your heel to start. Work up the overhang. The top out is very simple. You will get this route, no problem.

The second boulder route is to the left of this one on the biggest boulder on the beach. It starts standing on another boulder. Put your hands in the crack. Traverse right about 5 feet to slopers, then reach up to grab a good jug. Pull up for the finish jug and top out.

The third route is on the far left end of the big boulder. Start sitting with hands in the crack work around the arete. I never finished this problem, so I'm not 100% sure about the finishing moves. I will let you know as soon as I do.

I have only finished the first route, Before the Dinosaurs.

Getting There 

I have no idea how to get there I was asleep, but I do know it's just outside a hotel that we stayed in. I will let you know when I find out anymore details about how to get there.

Climbing Season

For the Cape Ann area.

Weather station 4.1 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Unknown Crag near Gloucester, Massachusetts
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Before the Dinosaurs.

Before the Dinosaurs V0 4  Massachusetts : Cape Ann : Unknown Crag near Glouceste...
Overhanging rock with good hand holds but bad feet. Use your heels to start work up the arete and top out that's all I can say 'cause it's a short but very fun problem....[more]   Browse More Classics in Massachusetts

Comments on Unknown Crag near Gloucester, Massachusetts Add Comment
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By Brianm
Dec 4, 2009
Does anyone else know where this is, or the beach it is at?
By mnatti
Nov 11, 2010
My guess is these boulders are along Atlantic Rd in East Gloucester. There are lots of fancy hotels and lots of ocean side granite. For the record, most of the rock is choss or too small to bother with, and the parking access sucks unless you are staying in one of the aforementioned fancy hotels (or it is not peak season i.e. winter).
From: ma
Mar 18, 2011
Looks like Stage Fort Park.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 13, 2012
So, if this is definitely at Stage Fort Park, we can move this route and consolidate the database.
By DFrench
From: Cape Ann
Jan 16, 2012
Leo, mnatti is right about this one. Not in Stage Fort, parking sucks, and there isn't much else in the immediate area unless you own that bitchin' mansion right on the water with its own fenced off overhanging boulder...sigh...
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 17, 2012
Doug & Matt, thanks for clarifying on this. So, unless someone has a better designation for this entry, we'll leave it as it.

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