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Unknown Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 217
Submitted By: aparnas on May 30, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The route from the road. The side of King's H...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Climb up a dirty crack with a bush in the way to a ledge. Enter the chimney and stem up to where the crack pinches down to offwidth. Thrash up and top out in a dirty alcove with some loose rocks. A short scramble up from the alcove, and you will find yourself in the middle of the King's Hand ledge.


This could be considered an approach route to the other King's Hand climbs, as it tops out on the bench above Jaycee Park Campground. Hike climbers right from the campground until you can follow a gully uphill to some easy scrambling that brings you over a band of chossy stone. Head back climbers left along the ledge. The climb is the obvious wide crack facing North.


Wide gear suggested. 1-2 X BD #3, 1-2 X BD #5, 1-2 X BD #6, Large stoppers for the top section, and a few BD #1 or #2 to build an anchor.

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By aparnas
May 30, 2016

Just a quick post-script. I couldn't find any info on this line on mountain project or in the new High on Moab book, so I am listing it as an FA. However, it is such an obvious route from the road as you head towards Wall Street that I find it hard to believe I'm the first one to climb it! If anyone has any info on this route that I couldn't find, speak up!
By Daniel Kaye
From: Boston, ma
Jun 2, 2016

Not sure... Looks bomb though, I'd climb it.
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Jun 6, 2016

Pretty sure this is not an FA.

Desert Rock (the blue one) includes three routes in the right-facing corners under the King's Hand. I think one of them is called Mormon Tea. I don't have my copy with me and won't for another few months, or I'd check the details now.

Good on you for exploring though! I love that Moab has such obscure (and even moderate) routes so close to town and the road.
By aparnas
Jun 7, 2016

Thanks Joe! I figured someone would know the truth. I've updated the name and FA status and will double check in the next desert rock book I see.
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Jan 4, 2017

Only 7 months later, I took desert rock for a walk on a cold and cloudy day in Moab. And, I changed my mind...seems like this could be an FA after all.

Bjornstad mentions three prominent right-facing dihedrals just upstream from Jaycee Campground. Looks like your new route is the left one, the middle one is Musk Mustard, and the right one is Mormon Tea.
By aparnas
Jan 5, 2017

Pretty cool info! Thanks for taking the time to check it out for me!

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