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Unknown Crack 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Ray Lovestead on Aug 28, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Unknown Crack climb.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a crack that begins on a ledge and jogs right and up through the obvious butt crack. It has 3 distinct cruxes: a slap move, then a flairing hand crack, then a lieback grunt at the top.

I can only claim to have fallen all over this climb. My two buddies who led it clean called it 5.11c. If anyone can please provide info about the FA or name or rating, please chime in.

Lots of dirt and plant matter was pulled from this guy, but there is no chance we're the first.

Location 

This is left of Unknown Sport Route on the ass end of East LA. Park at last campsite, and walk around the south end. Hike off to the North.

Protection 

A blue TCU for the start keeps you off the deck. Back it up, and you'll be fine for the rest of the route. Place 2 small guys for the start and #0.75 - #2 for the rest. Save a couple #1s and/or #2s for an anchor at the top. DO NOT toprope this route. It will eat your rope (the crack) and scour it. Belay your second from above.


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