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Beastie Alley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Danger Mouse S 
Fake-P, The T 
Inner Sanctum S 
Jaws S 
Lichen to Liken T 
Pony Express T,S 
Rusty-P, The T 
Thunder Toad S 
Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) T 
Unnamed T,S 
Unnamed Fissure T 
Unnatural Attraction S 

Unknown (crack with pin left of Unnamed 5.11) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jul 19, 2009

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Find the pin in the crack left of the black-hangered Unnamed (5.11) sport climb. Climb up to this by liebacking up the well-protected crack, or use face holds to either side. Clip the pin, then choose your adventure. I angled left, slung marginal chickenheads, then traversed left at least 20' with no opportunities for any good gear (which was spicy for both the leader & follower; possibly could sling more knobs?), and finished up a hands/OW crack to an anchor built off of a big block at the top. Straight up from the piton might go, but looked steep, thin, and poorly protected.

This climb is mentioned in the guidebook as one of 3 mixed routes in the Alley, but is not described or shown in a photo or topo, so you're on your own as far as the routefinding.

If someone has more info on this route (name/FA/intended direction), it would be interesting to learn the story of this old, forgotten route.

Location 

Just left of the black-bolted Unnamed 5.11 sport climb on the south side of the Alley, look for a knifeblade piton in a shallow right-facing crack.

There is another mixed climb with 2 old 1/4"(?) bolts left of this line. No details at this time, but it would share the finish that I used for this climb.

Descend by scrambling down (some 4th class) to the anchor for Pony Express, and rap from there back into the Alley with 1 rope.

Protection 

Nuts & cams to 3".
Bring thin slings to tie off chickenheads.


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