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Unknown bolted line on southwest face S 

Unknown bolted line on southwest face 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Cesare Maestri?
Season: Probably not summer
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Kevin Kent on Dec 16, 2016

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The formation

Description 

Heavily bolted line on the southwest face.
I circled the formation and other then the prominent chimney on the north end this was the most obvious weakness in the mountain.

Starts with the steepest part, even a slight overhang, on sort of shitty rock, then claw your way up unprotectable dirt to a small ledge. Continue up face past nice hand crack and pull onto a small ledge with 2 bolt anchor (equipped for rappel, but will likely kink your ropes because it's just one carabiner on each bolt) behind flake. Move left up lower angle gully to summit.

There are literally 5 separate anchors (10 bolts) you can chose to belay off of on the summit, but oddly none of them are equipped for rappelling. Pitches can easily be linked into one. There is also another anchor I believe of the same vintage on the rocky but slightly lower separate summit to the north (above the big chimney), also not equipped for rappelling.

I should say I had no knowledge of this route beforehand and soloed it up and down in my running shoes, but I did use a (bail?) carabiner I found a third of the way up to pull on some of the bolts for a little added insurance, not because the climbing is difficult but because holds breaking is highly likely. That said it's pretty disappointing that what was very likely the first ascent of this proud and prominent formation was done in a pretty poor style. By that I mean it is very over-bolted and with many bolts next to good cracks that would safely take traditional pro. I suspect that many of the bolts were drilled while hanging off the previous bolt. Also middle third completely avoids a beautiful and moderate crack system with better rock just to the left. That said I guess this climb is pretty beginner friendly...

Protection 

All you need is a bunch of quickdraws. 1 60m rope is more than adequate. Might want to bring some quicklinks to properly equip the rappels.


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