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A Brief History of Time T 
Broken Dreams 
Disillusioned Reality  T 
Disillusioned Reality free variation  T 
Down, Not Out 
Dreamscape S 
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Flying Vee T,TR 
Gully Washer S 
Jake's Problem 
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Long Lost Dreams 
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Red Limit S 
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 
Sea of Dreams S 
Simone Has Dreams TR 
Soul on Ice S 
Stained Glass S 
Tales of Power S 
Timeless S 
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 
Wet Dreams S 
Whippers in Time S 
Wrinkled Glass T 
Wrinkles in Time T 

Unknown between Brief History & Timeless 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Jul 25, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

This is a weird new route squeezed just right of A Brief History of Time. The crux may be a lot harder if you don't use the right wall of the finger crack as a sidepull. Its rating is a ?, since who knows how you're "supposed" to climb it!

Location 

This is a new route just right of A Brief History of Time. The first bolt is low on the slab, then there are 2 bolts past an easy roof, then you go up using very shallow sidepulls past 3 bolts just right of the finger crack of A Brief History.

Protection 

6 bolts and a few small/medium cams (#0.5/0.75 Camalot after first bolt, and an optional cam up higher but not needed). It is directly under the anchor for A Brief History of Time.


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By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Sep 20, 2015

Agreed, weird.
By Bill Farrand
Oct 11, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I led this route recently, and it seemed really contrived to me... not a natural line. It is definitely a mixed route. Bring some cams both for the gap between the first and second bolts and for higher up as well.
By Mason Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I brought singles of 0.5 - 0.75. There is a bad fall potential in the middle of this climb, but it's super easy (5.5?) territory.
By Evan18
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This is an independent climb from A Brief History of Time - at the crux, follow the bolt line straight up. The crux is the deadpoint/dynoish move to the scooped dish on the steeper wall straight above. If you use the finger crack, you traverse pretty far left, and definitely using the other route. In my opinion, fun movement - not the best route ever but still enjoyable. Definitely bolted as a mixed route - a few cams 0.5-2 is good, leave something for the top if you don't want to run it out a long ways on 5.6ish to the chains (fiddly, flared cracks).
By Todd Ra
From: Golden
Jul 27, 2017

I call shenanigans. The crux feels significantly harder than 5.10 if you follow the bolt line proper.

Also, this route is pretty shenaniganny. Contrived and not really worth climbing.

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