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Unknown ("Baby Beluga") T,TR 

Unknown ("Baby Beluga") 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Tread Fill-Ups, 4/16/2017
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: Tread Fill-Ups on Apr 18, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Halfway through cleaning the anchor. The yellow do...

Description 

This is an easy climb up a narrow face. It starts very easy and gets slightly harder as you go up. The most challenging part was trusting the loose rock, especially after knocking some medium-sized blocks off on the way down. That fear factor was far more intense than the climbing moves....

Location 

Stand at the rusty piton. Looking over the edge, find the comfy obvious belay station ~4 feet below you. Look to the right for a ~8 foot wide face between an obvious arete to the left and dihedral to the right. The route has plenty of obvious holds and is obviously climbable.

Protection 

I built an anchor to TR using two small nuts (#4 & 6 I believe) on the summit above the line plus a #0.4 Camalot and a blue tricam in the corner crack. The cam and tricam weren't ideal (too far to the side), and next time I will look for other options. There are bomber trees that are slightly further away than is convenient. We used a tree to protect the belayer given the awkward arrangement of the anchor relative to the comfy belay ledge.


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